There was a distinct whiff of Americana on the catwalks of New York at the start of the week, as the Autumn / Winter 2016 ready-to-wear collections offered throwbacks to a simpler time.
Tommy Hilfiger led the way with an ocean liner-themed collection that riffed on the traditional glamour of transatlantic travel. Retro briefs, sailor dresses and navy-style embellishments featured heavily throughout the ritzy show, which saw models strutting along a makeshift deck. There were bell-bottomed trousers, captain’s jackets, plenty of piping and even the odd tiara, conjuring up the allure of the 1920s with some of the pizzazz of the 1970s.
Also channelling a very American, although
albeit more East coast, vibe was Tory Burch. The designer’s clean, crisp, equestrian-themed line starred a preppy and sporty mix of white jodhpurs, riding boots, wool coats and loafers. The effect was light and breezy, with a series of cotton paisley summer dresses and suede mules also referencing the funky energy of the 1970s.
Vera Wang also harnessed the power of simplicity with a deceptively minimalistic collection that focused on slender, towering silhouettes. Billowing skirts that swept the runway were teamed with contrasting kilt-like buckle straps for an intriguing subversive detail, while full-length silk pajama jackets were layered over sheer tops for an ephemeral effect. There were narrow trousers and boyish suit jackets aplenty, while towering platform shoes added height and confirmed the understated drama of the show.
Meanwhile New York brand Rag & Bone
referenced trans-Atlantic relations with a
collection heavy on English tailoring via
military touches, single breast blazers and 1990s-style tracksuits and bomber jackets.
The outsized parkas, ribbed knitwear
and biker-style leathers also captured a candid snapshot of the amazing fashion history and smartly updated it for 2016.
And the ramp gets nostalgic!